![]() Will post an "after" ASAP.ĪFTER shot now attached. ![]() Just noticed the photo of the front attached is "before" with half the lamps out. All of the caps I took out (Elnas) were within spec so I think now "if it ain't broke don't fix it." Replaced all the caps on the power supply board because I'd been told the 220uF's are notoriously leaky. Think I'll see if my local electronics shop has an incandescent.Īs an aside-I'm doing this for a friend's son and started to do a recap. Wojo says to only use incandescent there but ebay seller sent an LED for there and said that's what he uses. Just undecided about the Stereo indicator. Also used warm white to look more like the originals. I aimed mine downward about 45 degrees so the light would bounce off the reflector. My tech friend said he doesn't like LEDs for these old dials because they're too bright and have "hot spots" - not evenly dissipated because they are not omnidirectional like the originals. I ended up cutting the leads on the LED very short so my splice is right up near the pointer and will have less flexing, I think. Problem is the leads are too short and you have to splice some super-thin wires. Installing a new needle pointer LED wasn't that difficult-just work slowly and carefully. If your now-hardened plastic is like mine, drill a new hole with a 3/16" drill bit and the new LED will push in from the back with a snug fit. Be sure to poke the rubber sleeve through, too. I ended up pushing the lamps from the front with a small nail set, then reaming with a pick. Do them 1 at a time to be sure to attach the leads to the correct posts. No way those lamps were coming out! I wound up pulling the wires off so had to poke the lamps from the front, which resulted in broken glass. They are pressed into what was once pliable plastic but with age and heat the plastic has become hard. I'll just add some notes on the function indicators. Probably look great on the x50 and x80 series. He mentioned he has new, amber colored wedge lamps coming in soon as well. I even made a mistake on my order and he called me on the phone on Saturday night and spent an hour helping me find a solution. I purchased the Cool Blue LED fuse lamps from projectblk86 on eBay. It's a thick and solid blue, not thin or overly bright. It looks fantastic though, just what I was hoping for - kind of like the picture below, but more blue and less purple. I would post a final pic but my phone and camera both refuse to show the new blue color. Slide the cardboard/construction paper piece back in place and power the receiver on to check. You can probably put the LEDs in by hand, they should be facing downward in this picture.ġ1. Unscrew screws 1 and 2 in the picture, and gently move the capacitor (3) and black wire (4) out of the way.ġ0. Turn the receiver around facing away from you. To replace the meter lamps, you must detach and lift the metal housing they're mounted in. Snug it up underneath the fuse mount and gently push it upwards until it slides into place.ĩ. Gently grasp the LED in the middle with your needle nose pliers.ħ. BE VERY CAREFUL not to break off the dial tuning pointer needle. It's glued on at the bottom, just go slow). Remove faceplate and gently pry the plastic/rubber plate (with the AM/FM dial on it) off the face. Be very careful as they strip easily and also fall through cracks easily! (Stud finders are helpful for picking up dropped screws.)Ĥ. Remove the two very tiny screws on top of faceplate holding it to chassis. Remove wood cover (2 large screws on each side).ģ. Remove hex nuts from function and bass knobs.Ģ. Pull off all knobs from front of receiver. The regulars here probably already know how to do this, but maybe this will come in handy for new enthusiasts just getting into this hobby.
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